Tradicionalni recepti

Ovaj test rezanja rajčice reći će vam koliko je vaš nož oštar ili dosadan

Ovaj test rezanja rajčice reći će vam koliko je vaš nož oštar ili dosadan

To je najlakši način da saznate imate li najoštrije alate u svom arsenalu ili je vrijeme za usklađivanje.

Uređivački tim je nezavisno odabrao i pregledao svaki proizvod koji predstavljamo. Ako obavite kupovinu pomoću navedenih linkova, možemo zaraditi proviziju.

Mnoge stvari trebaju održavanje u vašem životu - automobili, kućni ljubimci, čak i vaše zdravlje. Ali vjerovatno postoji jedna stvar u vašoj kuhinji za koju mislite da nikada ne treba provjeriti tu i tamo, a to je vaš pravi nož.

Svakodnevno rezanje i rezanje sastojaka nije vam lak poduhvat, a kamoli odabir noževa koji svakodnevno obavljaju prljave poslove. I postoji mnogo načina na koje vaš nož može odjednom postati tuplji nego što ste ikada mislili da može - bilo da stavljate noževe u perilicu posuđa, ostavljate ih na hrpi u kuhinjskoj ladici gdje se ogrebaju i udaraju, ili upotrijebite staklena daska za rezanje.

Zdrava prehrana bi ipak trebala biti ukusna.

Prijavite se na naš dnevni bilten za više sjajnih članaka i ukusnih, zdravih recepata.

Ne mislite da bi vas trebalo previše brinuti jesu li vam oštrice tupe ili ne? Razmisli ponovo.

Tupi noževi mogu biti glavni razlog mnogih kuhinjskih nesreća kada je u pitanju vaš vlastiti dom: ako trebate uložiti dodatnu i nepotrebnu silu za rezanje sastojaka, veća je vjerojatnost da će sečivo skliznuti i nasilno krenuti u drugom neželjenom smjeru. Zašto napraviti 15 teških rezova za nešto što obično zahtijeva samo jednu ili dvije kriške?

Kako možete utvrditi da li vašem sečivu treba neko oštrenje?

Zapravo postoji nekoliko metoda kućnog testiranja: rezanje papira za štampač, sjajnog papira za časopise, odsijecanje korice odštampanog časopisa ili knjižice ili čak pokušavanje da se ošišaju dlake na rukama.

Definitivno ne preporučujemo nož po ruci (niti želimo da ikada koristite stranice Cooking Light kao test za vaš nož!), Pa imamo drugo rješenje.

Postoji jednostavan test za utvrđivanje da li je vrijeme da uložite u čelik za brušenje, koji je zgodan alat koji može pomoći u ispravljanju bilo kakvog lošeg postupanja s vašim nožem i vraćanju oštrice na kvalitetnu oštrinu.

Poznat je kao test s paradajzom i vjerovatno ga isprobavate više od jednom sedmično:

1) Stavite paradajz od bifteka na dasku za rezanje sa stabljikom okrenutom prema gore.

2) Balansirajte nož na vrhu paradajza bez pritiska.

3) Povucite nož prema sebi i ne pritiskajte ga prema dolje.

Ako vaša oštrica prodre u kožicu rajčice, imate oštar nož i trebali biste se radovati. Ali nemojte se uzrujavati ako nož ne napravi ništa osim udubljenja u vašem rajčici - čelik za brušenje odličan je način da svom omiljenom nožu podarite drugi život.


Kako izoštriti kuhinjske noževe

Na putu da postanete bolji kuhar morate naučiti nekoliko vještina koje nadilaze stvarno kuhanje. Jedna od takvih vještina je naučiti izoštriti kuhinjske noževe.

Možda se ovo ne čini kao prioritet, ali jeste. Prije svega, oštri kuhinjski noževi mnogo su sigurniji za upotrebu od tupih noževa. Održavanje oštrih noževa također će vam uštedjeti vrijeme pri pripremi jela i osigurati da se vaša hrana pravilno skuha.

Dio procesa učenja kako izoštriti noževe je razumijevanje kako su napravljeni. To će vam pomoći da odaberete pravi alat za oštrenje za taj posao. Počnimo ’.

Brza navigacija


  • Vrlo oštar nož – Nikada ne upotrebljavajte tupi nož jer je veća vjerojatnost da ćete imati nesreću s tupim nožem nego s oštrenim.
  • Frižider ili zamrzivač – Razlog za to bit će očit u trenu.
  • Metalni pladanj i vrećice (e) za zamrzavanje – Još jedna stvar koja će postati jasna nakon što pročitate dalje.
  • Meso – Ovo je prilično razumljivo, zaista, nadam se.
  • Ukusan recept – Šta ćete još raditi s mesom nakon što ga narežete?

Očigledno, postoje rezači mesa koji mogu uspjeti. Kada kupujete meso, možete zatražiti od osobe koja se bavi mesom da vam ga nareže. Nažalost, čini se da manje namirnica ili supermarketa nudi ovu uslugu, ili nema nikoga kad vam zatreba. Međutim, ako ne posjedujete stroj za rezanje mesa i preferirate vrlo tanko narezano goveđe meso, onda to nije previše teško učiniti ručno.

Postoji i mogućnost kupnje već narezanog proizvoda. Međutim, veličine i debljina mogu varirati. Kuhari bi preporučili kuharima da sami režu meso kako bi osigurali ujednačenost i mogli slijediti upute navedene u kuharici ili receptu.

Međutim, ne mogu svi dobro narezati meso jer nemaju odgovarajući alat - nož za meso. Ako netko namjerava narezati meso u različitim oblicima i veličinama, najbolje je pretražiti tržište i uložiti u nož za meso.


Pravilno naoštren nož važniji je od oštrog noža

Dobar način da provjerite je li vaš nož pravilno naoštren je da napravite krišku papira u zraku. Držite komad papira ispred sebe i prerežite rub papira, počevši od stražnje strane oštrice i rezajući do vrha. Ako nož ne može lako rezati papir, vjerojatno nije dovoljno oštar. Ako proreže, a zatim se objesi u bilo kojem trenutku i počne cijepati, a ne čisto rezati papir, otkrili ste problematično područje na rubu. U tu svrhu volim koristiti papir u boji jer će ostaviti male komadiće papira na dijelu oštrice koji treba poraditi, a ako je papir obojen, ti se komadići lakše vide.

Nema smisla imati oštricu poput britve na svom kuharskom nožu. Takav rub jednostavno će biti teže zadržati oštrim jer će vrlo tanki rub lakše oštetiti ili se, ovisno o metalu, prilično lako prevrnuti. Oštro je dovoljno oštro. Znam da postoji mnogo članaka za izoštravanje i YouTube videozapisa koji se fokusiraju na dovođenje noža do ivice britve, ali čini se da je ovo osmišljeno kako bi privuklo promet i zadovoljilo neutemeljenu potrebu za savršenstvom, što je na kraju pretjerano. Takođe mislim da je ova revnost za oštrinu britve ponekad namijenjena da oštrenje noževa izgleda nedostupno. Ali, zaista, nećete se brijati kuhinjskim nožem, zar ne? Mogu napraviti izuzetno tanke kriške rajčice sa svojim kuharskim nožem koji je naoštren na brusu poput ovog brusnog kamena 1000/6000 iz Home Pro Shopa, iako nož vjerojatno nije oštar poput britve. A ja nisam stručnjak za oštrenje, spremno priznajem.

Ovaj članak sadrži jednu ili više Amazon povezanih veza. Pogledajte potpunu objavu.


Ostanite oštri uz najbolje kuharske noževe

Gotovo svaki recept započinje vašim sastojcima i neprocjenjivim alatom: kuharskim nožem. Pitajte bilo kojeg profesionalnog kuhara ili domaćeg kuhara i oni će vam reći da je dobar oštar nož jedno od najvažnijih kuhinjskih pomagala. No, oštrina nije jedino što ćete htjeti tražiti prilikom kupovine noževa za kuhare. Kupovina noževa zapravo može biti prilično osobna stvar - to je alat koji ćete koristiti gotovo svaki dan u kuhinji - pa je važno potražiti značajke koje ga čine ugodnim za upotrebu i sposobnim za rukovanje svim receptima u vašem repertoaru.

Prvo razmislite o udobnosti. Ako seckate, mljevite i narežete na kockice, poželjet ćete nož s ergonomskom drškom koji ne čini vašu ruku grčevitom i umornom. Duljina je jednako važna - 8 inča idealno je za većinu ljudi (i većinu zadataka rezanja), ali najbolje je smanjiti veličinu za centimetar ili dva ako imate manje ruke. Ono što kuhate važno je uzeti u obzir, previše teški, deblji čelični noževi su najbolji (i najtrajnija opcija) ako meso često pečete i možete naići na kosti. A karbonski noževi ostaju oštriji duže, što je zgodno ako vam ne smeta pažljivo ih očistiti.

Jeste li spremni za kupovinu ovog osnovnog kuhinjskog alata? Ovo je 10 najboljih opcija koje odgovaraju različitim potrebama.


A sada na zastrašujući dio: Oštrenje noža

Nož držite pod uglom od 10 do 15 stepeni, s oštricom okrenutom od vašeg tijela i gurnite cijelu dužinu oštrice od tijela, uz kamen po dijagonali. Na kraju tog udarca, lagano okrenite nož i ponovite, uvijek se odmičući od tijela po dijagonali preko kamena. Počnite s grubom stranom brusnog kamena, a zatim napravite nekoliko krugova na finoj strani. Ako je potrebno, obrišite nož krpom kako biste uklonili ostatke.


Da li mašine za pranje sudova zaista tupe noževe

Rekli su mi da ne smijem stavljati oštre noževe u perilicu posuđa jer će ih otupiti.

Koji je mehanizam po kojem se to događa ili je to mit?

Re: Da li mašine za pranje sudova zaista tupe noževe

Nož Sabatier od 9 & quot imao sam nešto više od 20 godina.

Oštren je čelikom kad god mu je zatrebalo (svakih nekoliko upotreba) - čelik je sada istrošen, ali oštrica noža * je u redu.

Međutim, ukupna struktura noža je oštrica od nehrđajućeg čelika & amp tang. Ipak, riječ je o inkapsuliranom tangu - nož i kraj oštrice umotani su u aluminijski omotač, a zatim unutar crne plastične ručke.

Budući da je materijal za kapsuliranje aluminijev, tablete za pranje posuđa s visokom kaustičnošću su ga nagrizle, što znači da je oštrica sada malo labava u ručki.

Otkad sam shvatio da se to događa, prestao sam ga stavljati u perilicu posuđa, ali šteta je učinjena.

Re: Da li mašine za pranje sudova zaista tupe noževe

Međutim, mašina za pranje sudova prah mogao bi, budući da sadrži visoko alkalna jedinjenja poput trinatrijevog fosfata, osim ako taj prah također sadrži inhibitor korozije poput natrijevog silikata.

Iako "sprečavanje" nije potpuno isto što i "sprječavanje", pa će tako dugotrajna izloženost tim kemikalijama na kraju degradirati materijale, uključujući otupljivanje ruba (iako je to vaša najmanja briga, budući da se i ostatak noža pogoršava) ).

To je razlog zašto profesionalni kuhari nikad stavili svoje skupe noževe u mašinu za pranje sudova (zaista im obično ne vjeruju ni kuhinjskom nosaču, već ih lično očiste).

Re: Da li mašine za pranje sudova zaista tupe noževe

Oni postanu dosadni jer ih prosječna osoba baci u korpu sa srebrnim potrepštinama sa svim ostalim - i to dobije nasmrt tokom agitacije od strane drugog pribora.

Re: Da li mašine za pranje sudova zaista tupe noževe

Rekli su mi da ne smijem stavljati oštre noževe u perilicu posuđa jer će ih otupiti.

Pa .. Ako vam je tehnika loša, udarna kost je prava nemogućnost.

Ne postoji oštar nož. Samo nož koji je dobro naoštren.

Prije svake upotrebe trebali biste ponovo brusiti oštricu (u razumnom roku). Dobro spremite nož (koristim držač noža u slamnatom stilu, ali su i magnetski dobri.

Rub se može smanjiti u mašini za pranje sudova zbog obilne hemikalije, a posebno sadržaja natrijuma, ali ozbiljno, ako je vaša posuda za noževe toliko loše kvalitete da na to značajno utječe, onda ste kupili stvarno kriminalno loše sranje, ili ga perete 12 sati dnevno svaki dan.

Nabavite napola pristojno oštrač za noževe (

Pravo pitanje u kuhinji odnosi se na kvalitetne (ili na neki drugi način) posude u mašini za pranje sudova. Istražite malo o teflonu i pojačalu PFOA. Lijepo je imati, ali bolje je naučiti pravilno kuhati)

Četvrtak, 31. oktobar 2013 23:01 GMT Fred Flintstone

Nabavite napola pristojno oštrač za noževe (

Izvini, ne. Ti polupristojni su zapravo smeće, jer završavate rezanjem radije nego oštrenom oštricom. Standardni čelik najbolje je držati oštricu u liniji i u dobrom stanju, pod uvjetom da to radite redovno i koristite nož od pristojno kvalitetnog čelika.

Um, izvini, ne

Ako želite da budu zaista oštri, zaglavili ste tradicionalnim metodama, iako karborandum kamenje više nije potrebno (postoje dijamantski kamenčići za grubo rezanje) napredujući do i kroz standardni uljni kamen.

Čelik je održavanje, ne oštre se užasno dobro. Zato mesari unajmljuju ljude da oštre noževe nakon određene točke.

I da, noževi za kuhanje u perilicama posuđa obično mogu udariti o druge metalne predmete, što rezultira ubojima i konačnim gubitkom ruba

Dakle, ako dobro čuvam noževe i redovno ih oštrem, ne moram ih prati ručno?

Tamo oprezno

dobivate gore navedene potencijalno zaista loše savjete.

Ako su vaši noževi od nehrđajućeg čelika, upotreba u perilici posuđa može biti u redu-- u stvari, mnogi noževi za restoran dizajnirani su za to. Međutim, neki od najboljih noževa su čelik s visokim ugljikom (znatno oštriji). Ne želite da voda sjedi na ugljičnom čeliku (hrđa) i da je osjetljivija na kemikalije.

Takođe, preporučujemo vam da budete oprezni pri oštrenju. Ne želite to raditi često, želite čeličiti oštricu pri svakoj upotrebi i izoštriti po potrebi. Oštrenje je zaista dobar način da trajno uništite oštricu ako ne znate šta radite, a postoji mnogo jeftinih i ne tako jeftinih setova koji će vam u tome pomoći. Konkretno, većina oštrača koji imaju dva karbidna bita (ponekad diskove, ponekad šipke) provlačite oštricu, a električna oštrača su recepti za uništavanje vašeg ruba. Uspješno sam koristio i preporučio bih Lansky youtube demo ovdje, ali općenito ne biste trebali mnogo izoštriti, a ako namjeravate kupiti vrhunski nož, trebao bi doći iz tvornice s prilično prokletstva dobar rub. Pažljivo pročitajte priručnik za bilo kakvu oštračicu koju dobijete prije nego što odete i upotrijebite je. Ili posjetite lokalnog mesara i saznajte od koga mogu naoštriti noževe. Ključ je ipak lijep, dugačak, čelik (duži je lakši za upotrebu i manje rada) s dosljednim hodovima niskog pritiska.

Re: oprezno

Koliko sam shvatio, lužina koja se koristi u mašini za pranje sudova & quotoap & quot uzrokuje dekarburizaciju (ili dekarbonizaciju) na rubu noža, ostavljajući u osnovi hrapavu površinu. tako da nije problem hrđe, već nedostatak oštrog pitanja. Mislim da neke komercijalne perilice posuđa čak i ne koriste lužine, već vodu i paru pod visokim pritiskom, pa možda u komercijalnom svijetu to nije problem.

Re: oprezno

Konkretno, većina oštrača koji imaju dva karbidna bita (ponekad diskove, ponekad šipke) provlačite oštricu, a električna oštrača su recepti za uništavanje vašeg ruba

Osobno mislim da bi te stvari trebalo potpuno zabraniti jer su opasne. Na kraju dobijete ivicu koja se sastoji uglavnom od neravnina. Naravno, kasnije će se jako dobro rezati - možda dvaput ako budete imali sreće - ali upravo ste napravili nevjerojatan nered.

Složite se 100% s opažanjem čelika - nema zamjene. Možete pratiti pojasom, ali to je za perfekcioniste ili britvice za rezanje grla :)

Hmm, iako se moram složiti s nekim od onoga što je HS rekao, mislim da sve ovisi o nožu.

Prije upotrebe noža napravite probni rez, ako nije čist, zatim naoštrite nož, ovo je samo osnovna sigurnost. Koristio sam noževe za klanje koji su trajali godinama, koristio sam se 5 sati dnevno i oštreo ponekad dva puta dnevno+ posebno kada su zahvaćene kosti.

Oštrač koji koristite, ako niste štreber s nožem, vrlo je važan - ali na tržištu postoji mnogo jednostavnih koji odlično i sigurno rade posao, brusite, a ne brusite! Veoma bitna razlika!

U vezi vode / hemijske korozije. Rezanjem bilo čega smočiće se smočni nož i ostat će mokar. Rezanjem nečega poput jabuka (posebno) metal će se vrlo brzo ugasiti - metal s visokim ugljikom. Mnogi kuhari s kojima sam razgovarao zapravo tvrde da noževi s visokim ugljikom nisu sanitarni.

Imajte na umu, naravno, da je sva oprema u kuhinji nož ionako jedan od najlakših za brisanje i skladištenje!

Što se tiče otupljivanja noža, skladištenje i daska za sjeckanje su jednako važni kao i pranje.

Sviđa mi se ovaj stil blokiranja: http://www.redferret.net/?p=17354 (iako postoje alo oni bez ivica za kontakt koji su dobri)

Sa zadovoljstvom koristim ovaj stil oštrenja: http://www.lakeland.co.uk/14747/Robert-Welch-Signature-Knife-Sharpener?src=gfeed&gclid=CPKtjZ7uvLoCFWfLtAod-ScAsw

Koristim noževe Wusthof, imam omiljeni nož za sve pripremne radove, a ovo je ovaj najbolji: http://www.wusthof.com/desktopdefault.aspx/tabid-75/105_read-950/317_view-121/categories-121 /country-gbr/wlang-2/categories-210-koristi se intenzivno dugi niz godina i u mašini za pranje posuđa vjerovatno najmanje 4 puta sedmično.

Ali da odgovorim na vaše pitanje, mehanizam kojim se to događa je oksidacija. Kemikalije u voću / perilici posuđa / povrću učinit će nekoliko stvari kako bi povećale brzinu korozije. Pomažu pri privlačenju vode u metal (ili bolje rečeno privlače vodu potpuno), te pomažu da voda postane bolji vodič tako da se atomi u procesu oksidacije mogu kretati slobodnije - ovo je način hvatanja 22 i očito najviše pogođen dio će biti najtanji dio, a to je rub.

dobre tačke. Keramika (kako se koristi u oštraču koju predlažete) ima mnogo manju vjerojatnost da će sjebati oštricu nego karbid. Osobno nisam ljubitelj tog oštrača za stil, ali možda zato što sam vidio da previše ljudi zabrlja lijep pribor za jelo.

ovo je ono što inače koristim- uzima i drži veliku prednost, nesumnjivo pogodnu za pranje posuđa i nije nimalo skupo.

Koristio sam noževe Wusthof i Sabatier u kuhinjama drugih ljudi, ali oni su uvijek bili razočaravajuće dosadni u usporedbi s mojim nožem od 20 dolara. Što ide do opće točke ove rasprave da možete imati najskuplju i najbolju opremu, ali ako je ne tretirate kako treba, neće pobijediti.

Zaista se više radi o tome što radite s njim, nego o kvaliteti vaših alata.

Radio sam u ugostiteljskoj radnji koja je radila veliki asortiman noževa (Kuća noževa u Petoneu) dok sam bio u školi, pa sam morao vidjeti ljude koji kupuju cijele setove kovanog Wusthofa za izgled, kao i mnogo stvarnih kuharskih profesionalaca . Najbolji način da nekoga prodate bio je pustiti ga da usitni mrkvu s dobrim primjerom svake vrste noža i pustiti ih da odluče. Snabdjeli smo i lokalni ugostiteljski fakultet i pobrinuli se da dobiju dobre noževe, a ne sranja koja nalijepe na neke druge.

Također mnogo demonstracijskih čelika i oštrenja. Čelik je lijep i lagan, oštricu povlačite oštricom po linijama glatkim pokretom rezanja pod kutom od 20 stupnjeva (otprilike četvrtinu pravog kuta) s čvrstim, ali ne snažnim pritiskom. Način & quotsafe & quot je staviti čeličnu okomitu točku na dasku za rezanje i odrezati je, tako da nikoga ne smijete rezati. Čelik & "četveroporavnava" odreže finu ivicu oštrice, gurajući je nazad u poravnanje. Oštrenje reže novu finu oštricu. Oštricu možete čeličiti na gotovo bilo kojem tvrdom metalu, ranije sam koristio kičmu drugih noževa u malo prstohvata (i čelične radne ploče, noževe za palete, poklopce za posude itd.)

Što se oštrih noževa tiče, pravi mesari su najbrži. To je doslovna marža profita. No, osim noža za cijepanje i kuhanje, gotovo svi noževi za klanje su fleksibilni. Zbog toga se često čelikuju i izoštravaju više od bilo kojeg drugog noža.

Za kuhinjske radove odgovaraće lagano, usko oštro žičano čelično sječivo ili oštrije kovano sječivo, ovisno o vašem budžetu i osjećaju. Udobnost ručke je važna. Imao sam profesionale koji se zaklinju u svakog, svjetlije oštrice potrebno je češće čeličiti ili oštriti, ali su manje zamorni i jeftiniji. Ako vam je potreban jedan veliki nož za kuhare (preko 10 & quot), tada vam uglavnom treba dužina kao poluga, pa je Victorinex od 30 USD koristan kao i 400 USD za cijepanje bundeva.

Moj najveći problem sa Wusthofom je što su počeli proizvoditi valjane čelične proizvode koji liče na njihove kovane. Proveo sam nekoliko hiljada sati u kuhinjama koristeći Wusthof kao svog radnog konja, s Victorinexom za noževe za rezanje.

Moj posljednji radni nož bio je 9 & quot Classic koji je bio tanji oko 5 mm od opetovanog oštrenja, pa su donji centimetar ili dva radili kao sjeckalica (sa širim rubom na sebi), a ostatak kao običan nož. Dobio sam ga u poker igri i zamenio ga za vreću trave. To je bio pravi nož za kuvare :)

Što se tiče nemogućnosti razlikovanja, ja sam uvijek bio taj sa svim kuhinjskim priborom u stanovima, a nakon & quotknife talk & quot (imam dosta normalnih, pa će se rijetki naljutiti ako slomite Istaknut ću, a ostale mogu biti uništene) flatties će ih koristiti. I imaju jake preferencije za Wusthofs. A kad su stanovi krenuli dalje, a mi naletimo jedno na drugo, uvijek spominju da su propustili imati oštre noževe.

Vraćajući se prodaji ljudima, ako su oboje oštri, primijetit ćete razliku s kovanim nožem u odnosu na neokovani. Ne onaj koji sam po sebi opravdava plaćanje 5-10x cijene, ali postoji. Ako ne možete razlikovati, onda su ili tupi, ili su čelični valjani Wusthofs. U tom slučaju nema nikakve stvarne razlike, osim ručica.

Perilice posuđa tupim noževima udare o druge stvari, kao i sve ostale zapažene dijelove. Općenito, noževi trebaju oštrenje nakon malo upotrebe. Kod kuće, istrošenost ruba mašine za pranje posuđa (pod pretpostavkom da se opere nakon večere za 4 osobe) vjerojatno je onoliko koliko se dobije rezanjem stvari. Sve u svemu, vjerovatno će imati slatki FA efekat na oštrici. Ručke, možda druga priča. Drvo je loše za perilice posuđa, ali je manje problematično ako se zapali.

Što se tiče vašeg novca, valjani nož za kuhanje od nehrđajućeg čelika (njemački, francuski ili kineski) sa drškom koja pristaje vašoj šapi, isto tako i za nož za rezanje, savršen je. Za nož koji će vas nadživjeti, kovano ftw. Zakleo sam se da nikada neću dobiti krivotvoreni nož za rezanje (friziran! Bit će odbačen zajedno s oguljenima!), Ali dobio sam ga na poklon i upotrijebio ga za sve.

Što se tiče noževa s visokim ugljikom, ne mogu se sjetiti nikoga tko ih prodaje za posuđe, osim ručno izrađenih stvari. Želite tvrđe, lomljivije za rezanje. A ako želite fleksibilnost, samo napravite masovno jeftiniji valjani čelik. Imaju upotrebu (lako ih je izoštriti, teško otkinuti), ali hrđaju poput grešaka.

TL, DR: Nabavite kovane noževe Wusthof Classic ili Grand Prix ako si to možete priuštiti. Svi dobro valjani čelični noževi u osnovi su jednaki. Ručke su važne. Noževi koji se mogu prati u mašini za pranje sudova su odlični u mašini za pranje sudova.

Moj voljeni može i uništava bilo koju oštricu koristeći noževe za rezbarenje kako bi ogolio vrbu itd. Pokušate rezati bilo što u našoj kuhinji i nema razlike ako koristite 'sharp ' ili tupi rub. Ona se također protivi ako ih pokušam ponovno samljeti dok postanu "previše oštri i opasni".

Najoštriji nož koji imamo zapravo je kvalitetan nož za maslac od nehrđajućeg čelika s drškom od kostiju (koja je postala obojena u ružičasto, samo se zna kako) - nekako je izdržao kaznu na koju će nož sjeckati, sjeći itd.

Pretpostavljam da ste pokušali tvrditi da su oštri noževi sigurniji, jer znate kamo će otići, koristiti manji pritisak itd.?

Iako, nemojte pokušavati s argumentom da su oštri noževi bolji jer nećete to osjetiti ni ako se posječete. Taj ne leti.

Ona se također protivi ako ih pokušam ponovno samljeti dok postanu "previše oštri i opasni".

Kad bi moja žena rekla tako nešto, nasmijali bi joj se i rekli joj da razmisli o tome šta govori. Imali smo takve razmjene, išli smo u oba smjera, mnogo puta.

NOCOVI bi trebali biti oštri i opasni. Zato ne dopuštate djeci da sami sebi odrežu odrezak. Ali kao što je gore spomenuto, vrlo oštra oštrica daleko je manje opasna u kuhinji od nekako oštre oštrice.

IMO tup nož opasniji je od oštrog. Tupim nožem morate koristiti veću silu i imati manju kontrolu. Ali ja nemam djecu o kojima treba brinuti.

Koristim oštrač za keramičke kotače s globalnim noževima, u koji ubacite malo vode i odlično radi.

Ne koristim mašinu za pranje posuđa na njima, ali kada ih perem, NIKADA ne puštam ručicu jer bi bilo oštro držati tu oštricu skrivenu u perilici posuđa.

Oh, potpuno se slažem s tim da su tupi noževi opasniji, ali isto tako ne režem prema sebi ffs. Birajte svoje bitke u ovom životu, a ne u jednoj od njih koju ću ja dobiti.

Četvrtak, 31. oktobar 2013. 18:07 GMT Kubla Cant

Keramika

Moja bivša žena stavlja noževe u mašinu za sudove, a njena je uvek tupa. Zapamtite, oni su noževi za sranje za početak. Drugi problem je što je nož uvijek u perilici posuđa kad vam zatreba.

Nikad nisam koristio oštrač - buka brušenja dok provlačite oštricu kroz nju zvuči previše kao da se događa oštećenje. Posljednjih nekoliko godina koristio sam keramiku & quotteel & quot; i smatram da je to mnogo učinkovitije od čeličnog čelika koji sam ranije koristio. Kad sam kupio svoj ludo skupi globalni nož, nisam se mogao uvjeriti da dobijem i keramički čelik & pound80 Global. Kasnije sam pronašao keramički čelik u Ikei, za & pound10 IIRC. Zapravo, vrhunski noževi koje sam kupio u Ikei su također prilično dobri i mnogo jeftiniji od Global-a.

@Hungry Sean: & quotSabatier & quot nije marka. Nekada su to ime proizvođači u Thieru koristili bez razlike, francuski ekvivalent Sheffielda, ali u novije vrijeme samo opisuje bilo koji nož za kuhanje u francuskom stilu, obično s trokutastom oštricom i crnom drškom.

Re: Keramika

Nikad nisam vidio smisao u Globalu. Izgleda super, prosječnog kvaliteta čelika, bez oslonca. Ručka je u normalnom položaju u redu, ali nedostatak oslonca (za mene u svakom slučaju) kada je držim s oštricom u prstohvatu, strana srednjeg prsta mi je naslonjena na ravan i prilično neugodan rub. Teško da se i prodao, ali to je samo loša cijena. Za istu cijenu mogli biste dobiti lažnu ili za četvrtinu cijene uporednu.

Čelik je čelik. Jeftino radi sasvim u redu :)

Keramički noževi?

Mogu li ići u mašinu za pranje sudova?

Treba li ih proizvođač ponovno izoštriti?

Četvrtak, 31. oktobar 2013 19:44 GMT Charlie Clark

Re: Keramički noževi?

Keramičke oštrice rijetko se tupe, ali su vrlo krhke pa ovisi za šta ih koristite, a posebno kakva je površina za rezanje. Ako brzo isjeckate, recimo svoju šargarepu narezanu, na tvrdu površinu brzo ćete je rascijepiti na mekšu površinu i dobit ćete godine upotrebe.

Ako keramičkom nožu treba oštrenje, to možete učiniti električnim uređajem, ali mnogo bolje odnesite ga u trgovinu noževima i pustite ih da to učine.

Re: Keramički noževi?

Prijatelj koristi keramičke noževe, a znatiželja me navela da provjerim ivicu pomoću zlatarske lupe. Proces trošenja je bio usitnjen, sa još oštrim komadima između čipova. Izgledalo mi je kao da se pretvara u nazubljeni nož s oštrim, isprekidanim rubom. Pretpostavljam da će ostati super oštar dok većina originalnog ruba ne nestane.

Može li neko ko zaista zna o čemu pričaju proširiti ovo?

Napomena webmasteru: Zaista nam je potrebna ikona nekoga ko priča kroz šešir.

Zamišljam mehanizam da ih ljudi stavljaju u istu košaru, možda s drugim raznovrsnim posuđem, a mlazovi vode jednostavno ih spajaju zajedno. Zatim pronalaze naoštreni rub omekšan zupcima, ručkama i čime sve.

Govoreći u svoje ime, svoje dobre noževe ne stavljam u mašinu za pranje posuđa iz dva razloga. Prvo sam jednom prerezao plastičnu korpu i dobio batine zbog vrtnje koje se vrtilo ispod, a drugo sam bio pomalo neoprezan pri istovaru, a nakon što sam odlučio da je oštrica gore bolja, to je ostavilo lijep ožiljak s moje lijeve strane kažiprst. Sada perem, sušim i spremam oštre noževe pojedinačno kako bih izbjegao oba problema.

Korozija

Primijetio sam koroziju na mojim noževima V-Sabatier otkad ih je moja supruga stavljala u perilicu posuđa. Ne mogu reći da li ih proces otupljuje jer ih također redovno oštre brusilicom. Voljan sam vjerovati da je nehrđajući materijal više higijenski, ali neće ostati tako oštro kao nehrđajući. Nakon oštrenja džepnim brusom, moj nož za jedriličare će bez mnogo napora presjeći osam slojeva lanene krpe. Ne mogu dobiti istu oštricu na svom nožu za nošenje, ali onda se mora nositi sa slanom vodom.

Četvrtak, 31. oktobar 2013 19:53 GMT Charlie Clark

Re: korozija

Prašak za pranje posuđa, a posebno sol za omekšavanje, potiču koroziju. Koliko je korozija jaka ovisit će u određenoj mjeri o tvrdoći vode: tvrđa voda treba više omekšavanja, a više omekšavanja značit će veću koroziju. Postoje jezičci koje možete kupiti, a koji su dizajnirani za upotrebu sa čelikom i srebrom (čak i podložniji koroziji) za koje smatram da zaista* čine razliku i sada ih koristim samo za pranje noževa ili tava.

Općenito, noževe je najlakše prati ručno. Ako ih perete u perilici posuđa, upotrijebite posebne jezičke, upotrijebite najkraći i najnježniji ciklus te ih izvadite i osušite čim se ciklus završi.

* Nedavno sam kupio pH-metar kako bih lakše identificirao najbolji filter za vodu s vrlo visokim sadržajem kalcija u vodi, pa ove stvari shvaćam možda previše ozbiljno.

Re: korozija

Potpuno ste u pravu pošto sam to uspio da propustim u svom vrhu. Visokom emisiji ugljika potrebno je češće oštrenje, ali može zadržati finiju (stoga oštriju) ivicu. Mekši je i bit će potrebno više zloupotrebe prije pucanja ili pucanja.

Čak i ako odlučite da su previše nehigijenski za kuhinju, odlično funkcioniraju kao lovački ili mesarski noževi :)

To je kombinacija faktora. Prije svega, u vašoj perilici posuđa postoje korozivne kemikalije. Neće vam ozlijediti većinu posuđa, ali rub oštrice je iznenađujuće nježan (pa, u svakom slučaju većina oštrica). Osim ako nemate VEOMA dobar nož, nećete moći izdržati. Drugo, ljudi obično bacaju svo svoje srebrno posuđe, uključujući noževe, u jednu korpu. Trljajte se jedno o drugo dok mašina za pranje posuđa radi. S obzirom na to da staklena daska za rezanje može nanijeti ozbiljnu štetu vašem sječivu, zamislite što će učiniti čelična vilica. Treće, oštrice se ne suše tako brzo u mašini za pranje sudova kao kad se peru ručno. Voda nije dobra za čelik. Čak i nehrđajući čelik može potrošiti samo toliko sjedenja u vodi prije nego što počne osjećati učinak.

Ušavši u brijanje brijačem, naučite mnogo o oštrim rubovima i njihovom održavanju. Ako ih udarite po koži, vratit ćete ivicu u normalu. Nakon nekog vremena ipak ćete morati izoštriti oštricu.

Čak i protiv podlaktice! Probaj! Nisam promijenio oštricu u 5 godina. Samo ga spustite niz podlakticu pola tuceta prije nego što ga upotrijebite (mokro) i voila - vječno sječivo za brijanje. (dugačak ili 3 stila stila)

Uvijek perite oštre oštrice ručno i pojedinačno.

Perilice posuđa koriste sredstva za čišćenje koja imaju granulatnu komponentu koja pjeskari prljavštinu koliko i deterdžent koji otapa mast, a za to koriste mlaz visokog pritiska. To više otupljuje oštrice oštrih noževa nego kemikalije. Samo provjerite ploče koje su imale vijek trajanja u mašini za pranje posuđa, postoje sitne mrlje koje se režu u glazuru koju ne možete dobiti ručnim pranjem, a također uklanjaju uzorke/slike sa čaša urezanih pijeskom.

I find that a diamond coated steel is the best way of keeping a good hone on my knives (as well as not letting others use them!) but you need to be able to keep a constant angle of blade to steel (about 17 degrees) or you are wasting your time. If the diamond-steel is new it cuts metal very fast and the inexperienced can ruin an edge in a couple of strokes but they OK for a regrind thus I always have two, one new and rough the other old and smooth which is used daily for the touch up.

Thursday 31st October 2013 19:36 GMT Will Godfrey

Hopeful

Can someone buy me a dishwasher so I can try this out for myself please?

I never knew what sharp was.

I never knew what sharp was until I got a Spyderco Sharpmaker set. The stones are excellent, and the base provides a very simple (upright is easy for eye to judge) means of getting the angle right. It takes most of the skill out of the job, but not all of it. It is fairly easy to sharpen a kitchen knife so it will shave arm hairs effortlessly --- but it still requires time, patience and some work. You can use the stones independently of the base to sharpen just about anything ---with as much skill as you can muster--- so this kit does not limit one.

Quick and easy version is my Chef'sChoice 2-stage hand sharpener. No shaving, at least not with my knives, but much much quicker to get to fine-slice-a-ripe-tomato stage. In other words: quick and useful! But also much more aggressive on the knives. I'd like an electric one, but that would be shere luxury for an occasional cook, even one who sharpens the knife almost every time. Chef'sChoice seem to be *the* choice of electric sharpener, unless one moves to workshop kit.

My knives are carbon steel. They get sharp more easily they get blunt quickly they stain, and rust if left wet. Do pro cooks still use these things? I doubt it. Stainless knives are so very much better these days than they were decades ago. If I were young, today, in my first home, it would probably be stainless all the way --- with a Chef'sChoice pro 3-stage electric sharpener which does honing and steeling as well as grinding.

But I still would probably not buy a dishwasher. Washing up is just not *that* much hassle. So I wouldn't be asking about putting my knives in one!

I prefer manual sharpening

But then I tend to use japanese style knives. I also clean them after use not put into a dishwasher. Only really need to resharpen every 6 months or so. But then my kitchen probably has more blades than any other utensils.

Can you keep the discussion focused, please?

Having debated this point with my brother for years (basically I think that dishwashers should do no harm and he does not get his knives even close to it), I came to this topic with high expectations of being able to finally settle the debate. Only to find a really long thread where people mostly expose their cutting preferences. Please, restrict yourselves to the point: is a knife safe in the dishwasher?

Sharp stuff from an engineers perspective on keeping it sharp

There's a lot of good advice and some bad above. That said knives (or any sharp thing) are like women, wine and beer, it's what works for you that really matters. Not what some knob at the cutlery store sold told you. How you use the sharp thing determines what 'sharp' is, as noted above, there's no such thing as 'sharp' just well done and task appropriate sharpening/honing.

Now for the Big Question: Does a dishwasher dull a blade? The answer is no. However, as others have noted, water/minerals/chemicals inside the dishwasher will have a negative impact on how cleanly you cut your (thing).

The sharp part of any sharp blade is made at the very, very, very edge of the blade and is defined by the angles at which the two sides of the knife intersect. The actual part that does the cutting can be seen under 20x magnification, but everything behind that intersection has no effect on the sharpness of the blade, only how the body of the blade interacts with the material as it follows the sharp edge (again, ideally the blade is purpose designed, ie: bread knife).

As the actual sharp part is very small, it is highly susceptible to mineral deposits and corrosion (even stainless and ceramic) that are not visible to the naked eye. Those deposits most certainly have a negative effect on sharpness but are somewhat intensified because they are carried and deposited as particulates in the steam inside a dishwasher instead of being carried away as they are under running water. The steam deposits a nice even coating of particulates across the entire edge.

Another factor is the 'wire edge' created during most abrasive sharpening processes. A stone or burnisher leaves a teeeeny little piece of metal (or ceramic) just past the actual intersection of the two sides of a blade. It is a function of the sharpening and can not be eliminated in process: Removing it is another step (below). Cheap knives are left with this edge intact intentionally, as it is very sharp but it breaks off easily, which is the leading reason cheap or poorly sharpened knives go dull quickly, this unsupported wire edge breaks off. The act of placing a knife in the dishwasher is almost perfect for breaking this edge off as well, but in this case it's the rack that's doing the damage, not the water itself.

In any case, putting water on knives, of any material, is the main issue and it is only intensified by the dishwasher, but the water itself is the problem.

Lastly, a well sharpened knife will stay that way for many decades of home use with 20 seconds on a leather strop after you sharpen it with a stone, a burnisher or cleaning it. Unless you drop it or stab someone hit something hard like a bone you don't need aggressive sharpening. All you are doing is removing excess material from the blade and repeatedly creating, and subsequently breaking off in use, a wire edge. A strop cleanly removes that wire edge (as opposed to breaking it off) and keeps the actual intersection of the sides even and clean (sharp). Even the finest diamond hones are too coarse at the microscopic level where a strop works. Additionally, it looks totally badass when you break out an old school strop before you cut into the sacrificial holiday animal and your knives will last exponentially longer. My cooking knives were made for my family by a New Hampshire blacksmith in 1784, they've seen sharpening stones exactly 13 times in all those years and they are unbelievably sharp, just from a good stropping after cleaning and before use. It only takes a few seconds.

Re: Sharp stuff from an engineers perspective on keeping it sharp

OK - you beat me. I'm happy that I have the knives that put my mum through chef school about 30 years ago. When she gave up cooking she passed them to me. I've had them since 2000.

And after that time they are still the sharpest I have ever used, with them being honed on the steel twice a year at most when my mum visits - she can do that far better than I can, and I really believe in knowing what you are good at, and what you should get someone else to do :)

As to topic, I have been told I can put them in a dishwasher by various people, but couldn't bring myself to do it! It's not like they take long to wash by hand (you just have to be careful)


Farberware Knives Review

1. Farberware Edgekeeper 21-Piece Forged Triple Riveted Block Set

  • 8-inch Chef Knife
  • 6-inch Chef Knife
  • 8-inch Slicer Knife
  • 8-inch Bread Knife
  • 7-inch Santoku Knife
  • 6-inch Cleaver
  • 6-inch Boning Knife
  • 5.5-inch Serrated Utility Knife
  • 3.5-inch Paring Knife
  • 3-inch Bird’s Beak Paring Knife
  • (8) Steak Knives,
  • Carving Fork,
  • One pair of Kitchen Shears
  • Storage Block
  • Rich and elegant design
  • Affordable set with a variety of knives
  • Durable high carbon stainless steel
  • Ergonomic handle with three rivets
  • Handles may break easily
  • Not a full tang
  • Santoku knife and Chef’s knife are not as sharp.

Finding a set of finely designed knives that perfectly cut the food items and not your pocket may feel like too much to ask for. Yet, that does not hold true with the Farberware set including 21-Piece Forged and Triple Riveted knives with an Edgekeeper Block. The blades are ultra-sharp from edge to the base making its agile movement seamless enough to pass through any food. Besides the knives, you are also offered a cherry finish woodblock that equips an EdgeKeeper built-in knife sharpener to hone the blades whenever the need appears. The set provides the owner with the following elements.

The handles assure the user with unmatched strength, durability, and comfortable grip owing to its ergonomically smart engineering with triple rivets that sets the tang firm. It is an all-in-one set that meets various professional and home cook needs arising with chopping down the food items in the kitchen.

2.Farberware 18-Piece Forged Stainless Steel Knife Set with Built-in Edgekeeper

  • 8-inch chef knife,
  • 8-inch slicing knife,
  • 8-inch bread knife,
  • 6-inch cleaver,
  • 6-inch chef knife,
  • 6-inch boning knife,
  • 5.5-inch serrated utility knife,
  • 5-inch Santoku knife,
  • 3.5-inch paring knife
  • 3-inch bird-beak paring knife,
  • (6) 4.5-inch steak knives,
  • One pair of all-purpose kitchen shears
  • Natural wood block with sharpeners
  • The woodblock matches most kitchen decor
  • Built-in sharpener to make edge retention simpler
  • Solid and durable from blades to handles
  • Ergonomic handles
  • Handles and blades are prone to tarnishing if not corrosion
  • Some customers reported against the Knives breaking easily
  • A bit costlier

Here’s a set of knives that cuts past the conventional designs of those black synthetic handles into featuring a brush-finished style. Each of the 18 tools in the Farberware Forged Stainless Steel Knife Set is elegant and eye-catching, be it the variety of knives or the natural wood block with a built-in Edgekeeper.

As we did cast a light on, the handles of the knives are made of stainless steel. They are hollow and sleek handles that are highly durable and strong. But there is also a downside to it you may find the grip uncomfortable in the beginning despite the ergonomic design. However, it gets comfortable with time. If you are someone who has had a bad time mastering brush-finished handles, be critically selective here.

3. Farberware 18-Piece Never Needs Sharpening Knife Block Set

  • 8-inch chef knife,
  • 8-inch slicer,
  • 7.5-inch bread knife,
  • 6-inch boning knife,
  • 5-inch utility knife,
  • 4-inch vegetable knife,
  • 4-inch tomato knife,
  • 3-inch cheese knife,
  • 3-inch parer,
  • (6) steak knives
  • One air of kitchen scissors
  • Natural finish wood storage block
  • Sharp, durable, and strong stainless steel blades
  • Textured, non-slip handles for a sure grip
  • Great for regular kitchen as well as for newbie cooks
  • Affordable set
  • Knives are not as sharp as not needing further honing
  • The serrated Chef knife is not impressive
  • Thin enough to operate through starchy vegetables like potatoes

This series is relatively affordable than the 18-piece set we discussed right above. The range of knives in the ‘Never Needs Sharpening’ set is vividly fascinating. From peeling the vegetables for prepping to cutting the steak for eating, the set gets your extensive requirements in the kitchen and dining covered. The tools have superior sharpness for precision, making them the best ones for those getting started with their culinary journeys.

What further adds to making it best for newbies are the stronger grips facilitated by the ergonomic handles. Micro serrations on the blades make cutting and dicing extremely easy to execute and provide precise results. Also, did you notice the names attributed to each knife as a vegetable knife, cheese knife, tomato knife, etc., instead of Santoku, serrated paring, and other complicated names that can be confusing to newbies? This makes it easy to allocate according to the food types and needs for cutting in the kitchen.

4. Farberware Stamped 15-Piece High-Carbon Stainless Steel Knife Block Set

  • 8-inch Chef Knife,
  • 6-inch Bread Knife,
  • 6-inch Slicing Knife,
  • 5-inch Serrated Utility Knife,
  • 4.5-inch Santoku Knife,
  • 3-inch Paring Knife,
  • (6) 4.5-Inch Steak Knives,
  • One all-purpose Kitchen Shear, S
  • Sharpening Steel,
  • Black Wood Block
  • Budget-friendly set with beautiful knives
  • Sturdy and durable from blades to handles
  • Great for beginners as well as regular chefs
  • Satin finish handles with ergonomic shape
  • Balanced, sharped, and lightweight knives.
  • Rust or Tarnish easily
  • No in-built sharpener in the block
  • A few customers have noted minor construction flaws like bubbled plastic

If you want a set of fashionable knives that fit your budget brackets, welcome to the review of the Farberware Stamped Knife Block Set, which has 15 tools comprising 12 varieties of High-Carbon Stainless Steel knives. The handles are aesthetically appealing as they are made of stainless steel that is brushed and given a satin finish. It is a perfect knife set for the ones navigating their way and styles in the kitchen landscape.

It is an excellent set to go with any kitchen decor, a lot of the appeal being credited to the match between stainless steel handles held up in the black storage block. The weight of each knife is well-distributed to add the necessary balance to agile movements. But what may worry you is your comfort with the polished handles- if you are unsure about handling it or maintaining the stainless handles well, be selective before buying.

5. Farberware Stamped Triple Rivet Stainless Steel Kitchen Cleaver

  • Heavy-duty and durable butcher weight
  • Tapered to an extremely sharp fine edge
  • Full tang, ergonomic design with three rivets
  • Resilient soft steel and thick blade

There are endless benefits of owning a butcher knife if you prepare the meat slices at home to get the desired curry cut or buffet pieces. Also known as Kitchen Cleaver, the butcher knives reflect their excellence through three things that we shall lay down to test the kitchen leaver by Farberware. Firstly, the balance of weight makes each stroke of the knife impactful enough to split the ribs, joints, and hard bones of meat and poultry. With the cleaver offered by Farberware, you would experience a greater impact at work with perfect balance to help you get through the cutting task safely.

Secondly, the cleaver’s edge withstands the repeated and sharp blows into the thick meat and bones directly. Farberware offers a dense and tough edge that is reliable and resilient. The blades are tapered to go from fine sharpness to cleaving thickness in matters of millimeters. This allows faster cutting and better precision every time.

Thirdly, the ease of use. It is where Farberware halters a bit. The lack of a rounded angle between handle and blade makes hours of cutting a taxing task to undertake.

6. Farberware Pro 5-Inch Forged Santoku Knife

  • Durable high carbon stainless steel
  • Ergonomic handle with three rivets
  • Ultra-sharp edge
  • Professional series knife with top features.
  • Better edge retention and durability

The professionally forged individual knives by Farberware are one of the best cutleries offered by Farberware. The stainless steel blade is secured in a full tang to the ergonomic handle using three rivets, giving maximum control and firmness. Moreover, the durability is worth the money! Coming down to the Pro 5-Inch Forged Santoku Knife, there are three key areas to consider the quality of the tool based on design, ease of use, and performance.

Based on the design, each knife in the professional series is crafted out of high-carbon stainless steel blades forged into ergonomic handles. They have impeccable and premium edge retention that tends to last ages more than regular knives do. The Santoku knife brings the best attributes of a chef’s knife, cleaver, and a heavy blade together. This brings us to the second parameter that is the ease of use. The knife performs all the heavy-duty tasks of slicing, dicing, and chopping. Thirdly, the extra durability and longevity make the knife an ideal tool to partner your culinary skills. Overall, the knife is performance-oriented, but there could be some severe downsides to it if you do not care for the knife enough.

7. Farberware 4-Piece Full-Tang Knife Set

  • Ergonomic handle
  • Improved easiness in slicing past the steaks
  • Agile and controllable
  • Clean and conventional blades

This set by Farberware offers four steak knives of 4. 5 inches blade each. They belong to the Never Need Sharpening range, which gives it an advantage of precision. The steak knives are our dining table accomplices that help in cutting the flesh out in a steak. With improved ease in getting the steaks cut, one would definitely experience enhanced convenience in dining. If you have guests or relatives over a meal, it is always advisable to put your best foot forward in hosting. Steak knives are generally made of sturdy yet agile knives which have well-distributed weight. Judging by the category, these steak knives get the job done.

These steak knives are not only performative but also very attractive to look at. What further adds to the novelty of the knives is the clean and conventional look that does give a hygienic experience on the table. Besides the appearance, it also offers a decent handling experience with an ergonomic shape. Furthermore, the handles do an exceptional job in adding balance and comfort. Facilitating a comfortable grip, the knives are pretty lightweight to handle and manage. The knives have superior sharpness for precision. Moreover, strength and durability are on point, with the full tang being carved of high-carbon stainless steel.


Sharpener designs

1) Sharpening rods. Two rods, either ceramic or coated with diamond dust, are set in a holder usually at 20˚, 25˚, or 30˚. The rods are used by sliding your knife from top to bottom while pulling or pushing along the entire length of the blade and keeping the blade against the rods. This method is easy to learn and a good way to keep relatively sharp knives sharp. Sharpening rods are fairly inexpensive and can often sharpen serrated knives. They are not useful for sharpening a dull knife.

2) V-sharpeners a.k.a. Pull through sharpeners. These are two hardened pieces of tungsten carbide in a hand-held or table-top device in a V-shape. The knife blade is pulled through the V’s several times to sharpen. They are small and easy to keep in a kitchen drawer, can be used to very quickly sharpen blades, can remove small nicks, and are inexpensive. They are, however, inconsistent, as one pull can be too strong and remove too much metal, while a weaker pull does nothing for the other side of the blade. Sometimes the carbide can catch on nicks on the blade, making them worse.

3) Electric sharpeners. Countertop electric sharpeners get the job done quite nicely and much faster than any hand operated sharpening device. They can be moderately to very expensive but do the trick efficiently. Once your blades have been sharpened, you need to use an electric sharpener only once or twice a month to maintain a fine and sharp edge. Most models have either two or three slots, similar to the V-sharpeners, with discs designed for a range of sharpening from rough to very fine. If improperly used, electric sharpeners can wear down a blade rather quickly though, so use caution and moderation with them.

4) Sharpening stone kits. Many experts consider stones to be the best material for sharpening knives. They are also, by far, the most time-consuming to use. A sharpening stone kit typically comes with several flat stones of different coarseness. You start with the roughest and progress to the smoothest. Each stone is lubricated with water or mineral oil. Pick one, you can’t use both.

Water stones need to be soaked in water for at least an hour. With oil stones, you can drizzle oil on the stone just before you begin the sharpening process. Use only mineral oils. Vegetable oils can harden, clog, and ruin a sharpening stone. If you’ve got free time, and don’t mind a repetitive, and somewhat tedious process, have at it.

We are not reviewing sharpening stones at this time. Instead, we will conduct a much more detailed review and test of the best among the huge variety of stones available. We’ll also review the best and worst methods of using sharpening stones.

5) Sharpening steels. These are not sharpeners. Steels cannot remove nicks or sharpen dull blades, and they don’t remove any steel. Instead, they realign the rolled metal edges of knife blade into a straight line, which makes the blade cut better. They are very common and can be used daily to slightly improve a blade’s performance. Steels are easier to use than real knife sharpeners and they are inexpensive. There are three kinds: smooth, ridged, and diamond coated. Because they do not actually sharpen, we did not test any steels at this time. But we do recommend keeping a steel on hand to keep your knife cutting at its best. Here is a link to one we recommend.

6) Strops. A strop is a flat piece of leather, often attached to a thin strip of wood. They have a little flexibility or bend and are used in a similar fashion to steels. However, they are even less effective at sharpening, merely realigning the edges of knives. We did not test any strops, but they are another decent option for honing a knife between uses. We prefer steels.


How to to Get the Best Out of Your Knives at Home

Welcome to Out of the Kitchen , our ongoing exploration of America’s coolest food artisans. Over the next few months, we’re apprenticing with the best knife forgers, cider brewers, and spice blenders, then bringing their knowledge and expertise back to our home kitchens—and to yours.

Christmas came in September for me this year.

When I heard I was going to the Bloodroot Blades shop with BonAppetit.com staff writer Rochelle Bilow in Georgia to learn knife making from to start to finish with Bloodroot owners David Van Wyk i Luke Snyder , I was, to put it mildly, stoked. You see, I’ve always had a passion for knives, and this spring I started making my own kitchen knives from old carbon-steel blanks I buy from an old French chef. (It’s a long story.)

For me, shaping and sharpening knives is the perfect mix of a day of metal and woodwork, and seriously scratches my lifelong itch to make something with my own two hands—be it squid-and-veggie ramen or the fiberglass finish on a surfboard. And knife making is as much art as science, as far as I’m concerned: Forging metals from an old farm tool into a blade thin enough to effortlessly cut a tomato yet strong enough to mince ginger, all while looking beautiful, is comparable to Ginger Rogers dancing backwards in heels. Getting to go to Bloodroot Blades was like watching magic being made, and I left Georgia with a new appreciation for knives—and new ideas about how to buy and care for them.

But even the most devoted home cooks aren’t going to be making knives in their backyards (and probably shouldn’t). Still, everyone should know how to buy knives and to care for them. Like I said, even for a professional like me (you'll find me in the Prijatno test kitchen Monday through Friday), the trip to Bloodroot changed the way I think about my own blades, both the ones I make and the ones I purchase ( read more about Van Wyk, Snyder and Bloodroot here ) . Getting my hands dirty and learning how knives come into being at the hands of these artisans left me with greater insight into the knives I buy and care for—here's how you can be a master knife owner, too.

Leone, forging metal at the Bloodroot workshop. Photo: Paige French

The Bloodroot Credo: The Right Knife for the Job

Buying knives can be an intimidating experience. They come in all different shapes and sizes, all of which do certain jobs—you wouldn’t want to use a slicer to core a tomato. It’s worth doing some research on the knife you’re interested in to make sure it's the right tool for what you have in mind. The Bloodroot guys reminded me how important it is to remember that.

Most chefs only use and need a handful of knives—even if they own 25, they usually grab the same four or five. "Buy fewer knives, and buy better knives," says Snyder. There are a few staples everyone should own: a three-to-five-inch paring or petty knife, a ten-inch slicer, a seven-to-eight-inch chef’s knife, and the wild card—a boning or fillet knife. (My steadies are my five-inch petty knife, razor-sharp Chinese cleaver, ten-inch slicer, and fillet and boning knives.) The Bloodroot guys’ best seller is their Japanese-style gyuto , which is basically an eight-inch chef’s knife. Granted, admits Van Wyk, "If you love breaking down whole chickens and get a lot of joy in that, buy a cleaver." But for the most part, the basics will get the job done. If you love to cook, then it’s worth buying the tools to get the job done correctly. You’ll thank yourself later.

Heavy Metal

Knowing what kind of metal your knife is made of is a key decision in buying , because it will affect the way it must be treated. If it’s a knife that’s high in carbon steel, then you need to wash and dry it thoroughly after each use. Leaving water on carbon steel will leave rust spots (which you shouldn’t confuse with patina, which is the normal chemical reaction carbon steel will undergo over time). On the other hand, stainless-steel knives won’t rust or show discoloration—but they also can’t get as razor-sharp or maintain an edge as long as carbon-steel knives. Ultimately though, says Snyder, "You can geek out about steel types, but a knife's longevity is all about how you sharpen it, what you cut on, and how you treat it."

Online Is Fine, but In-Person Is Certain

There’s nothing wrong with buying a knife online—if you’re familiar with the style and maker. Otherwise, go to a store with a large knife selection that will allow you to hold and feel the knives. Once you pick it up, you'll know pretty quickly whether or not the knife is a match for you. Van Wyk and Snyder imparted to me an appreciation for custom-made knives made by artisans, of course, but if you can’t find one of those, there’s nothing wrong with going to Williams-Sonoma or a store with a decent knife shop. Just because you're not getting a custom-made knife made specifically for you doesn't mean that you can't still find the perfect knife for what you have in mind.

Remember the first point—use the right knife for the job. Know what you want to do with the knife and keep that in mind when purchasing. Don’t be shy about asking questions. Let someone help you find the tool that best suits you.

Balancing Act

My time at Bloodroot taught me about the importance of balance. Balancing the knife allows the blade—and its cutting motion—to work with you and not against you, which could ultimately fatigue your hand and wrist. The balance of the knife should be right around the bolster (the knob or metal band where the blade meets the handle), and you should be able to hold up and balance the whole knife evenly on a single finger at that one point.

But at the same time, the balance of the knife also depends on where you hold your knife —and everyone tends to hold a knife a little differently. If you’re lucky enough to have a custom blade made for you, talk to your knifemaker about your unique needs (Are you slicing fish filets from the bones, or whacking a chicken in half?), so that you'll get the best possible tool.

Van Wyk finishes a custom knife. Photo: Paige French

Respect Your Blades

The guys of Bloodroot respect their blades and so should you, no matter where you get your knives—or what kind they are. Someone who respects his or her blade remembers: No knife should be left dirty on the cutting board or thrown into a drawer with 20 other kitchen tools and knives. Clean your knife and put it away immediately after use.

In my kitchen, the rule is: As soon as you’re done with a knife, it gets hand-washed, dried, and put back on the magnetic strip. (When it comes to storing your knives, Bloodroot suggests using a magnetic knife strip that gets hung on the wall in your kitchen. It makes it easy to find the knife you need, and prevents damage to the blade, ultimately keeping your knife sharper and longer-lasting.)

No knife should be left in the bottom of a sink—whether it’s carbon or stainless—ever! Don’t put knives in a dishwasher, as it can affect the metal and damage the handles, which can ultimately end in total knife failure.

"Just pay attention to the knife," Van Wyk says. "It's not a spoon."

Lookin’ Sharp!

Ti će need a honing steel and sharpening whetstones if you’re serious about your knives.

Also, maintaining your edge by using a ceramic hone—a rod used to straighten out microscopic nicks—will keep the edge sharp and require you to make fewer trips to the stone. If you’re handling the knife properly as you sharpen, you should only hit the stone two or three times a year, max, on any well-made knife. Honing steels come in various materials, but what really matters is that you use a material that’s harder than your knife. Bloodroot likes Mac ceramic honers —they’re $25 and real workhorses.

Hone your knife's edge regularly by running it down the steel on the same angle that it’s sharpened at. When honing, you are correcting the edge—imagine the cross-section of a dulled blade where the edge is rolled over to one side, like the curl of a wave seen from the side. By honing it, you are simply straightening the edge until it becomes a sharpened triangle.

Sharpening is another process entirely. Whereas honing is simply straightening out the tiny divots in your knife, sharpening means you're essentially filing down a the edge of a dull knife, actually shaving away metal against a whetstone until you get a keen edge.

Van Wyk and Snyder say there’s no one way to sharpen a knife. It’s really about consistency and evenness. That means you don’t need to go fast, and you don’t need to sharpen for 50 minutes—unless you are fixing a damaged knife, a few passes on each side is fine. ____

Don't try this at home: Snyder tests a blade's sharpness by slicing off his arm hair. Photo: Paige French

Van Wyk and Snyder say synthetic whetstones with a grit of 1,000 to 1,200 are great for most uses—go for a 6,000 rating for fine polishing and finishing. (The stones are measured the same way sandpaper is labeled, 60 being really coarse and 6,000 being super fine.)

When putting blade to whetstone, you want to follow the angle that your edge was created with. There isn’t one correct way to sharpen on a whetstone—it’s an art form unto itself. Just find a method you’re comfortable with and that gives you results, take your time, and be consistent. Consider asking a professional to show you their technique first. I recommend practicing on an inexpensive knife. When you’ve got it down, move on to your “real” knives. There’s nothing more satisfying then putting an even, razor-sharp edge on a knife.

If you want to go to the extra mile, you can use a leather strop to give the knife a nice polish. If you don’t have a leather strop, you can just use newspaper on a hard surface —run the knife along the length of the paper at the same angle you would to sharpen it, pulling the knife away from the edge. “It’s free, and it works,” Snyder says.

Where to Cut

A common mistake is using the wrong type of cutting board. You don’t want to cut on a surface that’s harder then your knife. This will cause the edge to roll and become dull and even damaged. Don’t cut on your granite countertop—and, please, if you have a glass cutting board, throw it away and pretend that chapter in your life never happened. Super hard g____lass is one of the worst materials you can use to chop on.

An end-grain wooden cutting board is ideal, but any hardwood board is good. Snyder says to stay away from plastic as your "everyday" board because cuts in the surface will harbor bacteria. Bamboo will dull your blade because of its fibrous makeup. A more traditional hardwood is softer then metal and will keep your knife sharp and provide a better cutting surface. The end grain receives the blade, and minor cuts in the surface of an end-grain board will seal up, keeping the cutting surface clean. A quality wood cutting board should last you plenty of years.

Weekend in the Country

Spending a weekend down at Bloodroot's headquarters, making knives and getting to know Van Wyk and Snyder really opened my eyes up to how much I can still learn. Having the right tools to do any job—whether it be forging knives or cooking chicken soup—makes all the difference in your finished product. But tools alone will only take you so far putting in the work and learning the art is what separates quality from everything else, and that's what makes Bloodroot Blades so special.

The next time I buy a knife for myself (likely a three-inch boning knife), I'm going to mentally relive the weekend at Bloodroot: I'm going to test out the balance so that it's weighted a bit more toward the front, suiting my holding style. I'm going to let the seller know that I'll be using it to take apart everything from goats to delicate fish. I'm going to ask for carbon steel, because I like the way the material holds an edge, and I love the patina it develops over use and time like a badge of honor. And when I get it home, I'm going to take care of it—no dishwasher for my new baby.

Because Bloodroot reminded me that, for someone who cooks, a knife is more than a tool, it's an extension of your hand, the farthest point of your body, changing this world into another one that your mind imagines. Watching them work reminded me that there's nothing as satisfying as cutting a soft tomato with a sharp knife and feeling it fall right through the flesh, or cutting a steak off the bone and leaving no tear, no ragged edges, just a perfect steak. It's like a driving a Ferrari—you don't want to go back to a Toyota Corolla. A knife is a piece of art, but it's functional. And watching Snyder and Van Wyk create the Ferraris of the knife world reinforced in me how important every step along the way is, from heating the metal in the oven to pounding it with a hammer to finding the right use and owner for it to wiping it down after every use. And if I continue to treat my most treasured knives right? Someday I may get to pass them on to my kid.

Or as, the Bloodroot guys like to say, from the Bloodroot forge to my cutting board, each knife is its own story, and I get to tell the final chapter.

But the most important thing I took away from Bloodroot was a sense of possibility: Their shop made me want to leave New York City and buy an old farm to build a workshop on.


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